Classic arête climbing on Cabe Esperar (8a) at Sombretivo.

Cuenca is a small city in central Spain, just two hours east of Madrid. The old town is perched on a cliff-lined plateau and is famous for Les Casas Colgadas, hanging houses built into the sheer rock walls that snake around the outer perimeter. Due to its abundance of historical attractions, Cuenca has been declared a UNSECO World Heritage Site and draws countless tourists every year, but the river gorges that surround the city are a major site for rock climbing, one of the most important in this part of Spain. But despite its quality climbing, visits from international climbers remain relatively rare, likely because Cuenca retains an old-school flavour, one where technique often trumps brute strength and tufas are practically non-existent. Regardless, the plentiful sunny aspects piqued our curiosity and we decided to dive in and book a mid-winter trip.

Leonidio, Greece

Leonidio, Greece has recently appeared on the radar of winter climbing hotspots in Europe. This idyllic village lies about 3.5 hours south of Athens and rests on the coast of the Peloponnese, a historic mountainous peninsula with a deeply indented coastline that juts into the Mediterranean Sea. Having already climbed in Kalymnos, we were curious to see what mainland Greece had to offer, and our short, two-week trip in late December allowed many favourable comparisons.

Backyard Project finally sent 5.12d GnR, Upper West Bolton, Vermont

Our team of mountain climbers on top of the wind scoured summit of Mt Monroe 5372 ft.

The Greek island of Kalymnos, a stone’s throw from the Turkish coast, is world famous for its limestone rock climbing. My first visit to the island was with my wife in 2005. We enjoyed it so much that we vowed to return, and we did 4 years later with our young daughter in tow. That was 2009 and I just returned from my third visit to Kalymnos. I was pleased to see much has remained the same from my fist trip almost 10 years ago.

Each June I have the opportunity to teach a segment of the "Summit". This program was started at Western State Colorado University in remembrance of Pete Turbush who died in a climbing related rock fall accident in Yosemite back in 1999 (http://www.srcfc.org/Good-News/Peter-Terbush-Story/). Pete wanted to become a mountain guide, so his parents set up this foundation to give college students the fundamental technical experience as well as outdoor leadership training necessary to follow in Peter's path.

 I have taught both the mulit-pitch rock segment as well as the single pitch course for the "Summit" over the past several years, and it is always fun to remember what it was like when I was an up-and-coming guide learning these techniques.

Learning lowering techniques at Taylor Canyon

I know it's ski season and all... but I'm going to throw some rock scaling in here anyhow.  Last month was my first ABS Nationals as a US citizen and I managed to get 3rd in a highly competitive field, which places me on a USA bouldering team.  I'm psyched to share this news as I'm getting ready for sport climbing nationals coming up in just a few weeks!  In the meantime, enjoy the men's and women's highlights provided by the LT11 crew!

First off, I need to introduce myself.  I'm Doug Shepherd, a new addition to the Mammut team.  I live in northern New Mexico, where I was born, and am now working as a scientist.  On any given weekend I might be playing in our local mountains or attempting big, cold, icy climbs in some remote mountain range.  My friends occasionally stage interventions on my behalf, particularly when it's rock climbing weather and I'm packing for yet another try on some frozen/mixed horror show on a remote peak instead of enjoying the perfect basalt climbing right by my house.

Recently, I've been attempting these climbs on short trips (less than a week) from home because of my family and work responsibilities.  Some people have termed this kind of climbing "smash and grab", but I prefer "ninja alpinism" and have a great story to share from this past weekend that definitely qualifies as a sneak ascent...

Widow's Tears, ~1200 ft of continuous ice, in Yosemite National Park

I was in southern California for work when my friend Greg Loniewski let me know he had climbed Widow's Tears, a rarely forming 1200 ft ice climb in Yosemite National Park, on January 3rd.  It had seen three other ascents after his and was holding up decently.  This route has been a dream route for me since I started climbing, one of those climbs that is more rumor than truth and many people had attempted but never succeeded on.

Unfortunately, I was stuck in meetings until Thursday, January 18th, and the temperatures were warming up.  Florian Dörfler, a climbing partner of mine who lives in Santa Barbara, was game for a crazy mission.  He picked me up around 10PM on Thursday night and we drove straight to Yosemite, stopping at a massive 24-hour grocery store in Fresno for supplies and at Greg's house to pick up ice screws and a hand-drawn map of the approach and descent.  This climb would not have happened without Greg's map, which gave us just enough information to find the route and the descent, leaving the spirit of adventure alive on the route itself.

Just a small part of WinCo, the largest grocery store I've ever been in.  We lost time on the drive just because we wandered around forever looking at all the different food!

One of our better finds at WinCo, fresh cinnamon rolls at 1AM

We arrived at the parking lot around 4:30AM on Friday and quickly repacked, pounding as many cinnamon rolls that our stomachs could take.  We were soon off, following Greg's map that laid out the general direction to go.  Despite his excellent directions, we still managed to get lost in our sleep deprived state, eventually making it to the base of the climb as it started to get light.

Florian starting the approach after no sleep and driving all night

Florian soloing up the approach ice and snow before Widow's Tears

The first two pitches had started to delaminate in the heat, but we managed to find just enough gear and bonded ice to make them go.  From the third pitch on, the ice quality continually improved until we were climbing hero ice at the top.  As I started up the third pitch, we both remarked that it didn't seem that far to the rim.  How wrong we were, as we were at least 200m from the top.  We kept a good pace, feasting on the variety of snacks we had bought in Fresno and marveling at the position and quality of the climb.  At one point we simul-climbed a long pitch hoping to reach the top, only to be stopped 50m short because I ran out of gear and had to bring Florian up.  This is a huge route!

Myself leading our 3rd pitch, where the ice quality dramatically improved

We thought we could reach the rim on our 5th pitch, but had to stop and belay for one last pitch after simul-climbing for a bit

Florian finishing our 5th pitch, thankful for the protection of his Tripod 2 helmet!

Looking down at Florian on my way to the top of the climb

The view of El Capitan across the valley when we topped out

Florian starting the descent through the woods

The route took us about 6.5 hours from the base to the top and we lounged in the sun for a bit because we had gotten soaked on the last few pitches from the water pouring down the sun-lit ice and snow above the climb.  We knew the descent was roughly four miles through the trees, crossing a few ridges and then finally picking up the trail leading down to the Wawona tunnel parking lot.  Thankfully, a few teams had already been that way, providing us with a foot track to follow through the woods.  Both Florian and I were starting to slow down at this point, the effects of not sleeping the night before catching up with us.  We slowly stumbled our way back to the car, arriving shortly after the sun had set.  We drove back to Greg's house to drop off his gear, where he surprised us with cold beer, fresh pasta, and a place to crash.  The next morning, after sleeping in and eating a huge breakfast, we rallied over to Reed's Pinnacle and climbed classic granite cracks in the warm sun.  A huge ice route one day and perfect rock the next day made the long drives totally worth it!  Huge thanks goes out to Greg for his hospitality and sharing his hard-won beta.

Florian about to receive a Yosemite education in hand-stacking

Stayed tuned for stories from a quick two week trip to Patagonia, including an ascent of Cerro Torre!  I'm really excited to be part of the team and honored to share this space with so many friends and awesome athletes.

by Chris Thomas

 Will Mayo pulling down on the classic Toxic Hueco
 Trying, and failing, to onsight slopey 5.13 in the 90+% humidity.  Great route none the less! 
 
 Quinsana Plus


 

Sunset on Beauty Mountain.  Great finish to the trip.

Chris Thomas

by Chris Thomas

It was hard to leave the paradise of Switzerland, but with so many places to see and types of climbing to check out it was time to move on.  We decided on the Finale Ligure/Oltre Finale region of the Italian Riviera.  It felt like we won the lottery!
Oltre Finale is all about the tufas.  This makes for steep, gymnastic climbing on features that you just don't get in the US.  So much fun!
 Standing below my first 5.13 onsight since coming back from injury earlier in the year
 Beautiful arch bridge leading to one of the climbing areas

Yucca, a mini-project for the week we were there.  Short bouldery routes have always been my weakness, so it felt great to tick this one off

The Vilalge of Colletta.  Ancient buildings, top-notch Italian food, incredible views, and walking distance to world class tufa climbing.  What more could you ask for?

I can't wait to go back!

by Chris Thomas


 Approaching Hintisberg through the cow pasture. 
 Looking across the valley at the North Face of the Eiger!
 Picturesque Murren. 

Making it even cooler was the base jumping event going on.  We watched dozens of wing suiters take off just a few feet away from us.

 Thanks for contributing to the construction Mammut!

 Gimmelwald.  Perhaps the most scenic sport climbing area I've ever been to

by Chris Thomas

20 minute hike, 3 hour drive, and three different hospitals later, I finally ended up getting same day surgery in the ER in Salt Lake City.  My extensor tendon was cut, but not completely severed, and I went through the fascia and into muscle.  The biggest risk is infection from the pile of dirt, lichen, and other debris that were lodged inside the wound. 

Be careful out there, even slabby moderate sport routes can snap at you when you’re not paying attention.

We just got back from another short trip to Joe's Valley. This time it was my turn for "sucking in Joe's" and I definitely learned a few lessons about patience and resting during bouldering.

Anyway- here is a short video David made about the trip.


Sucking in Joe's 2 from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.


More next time!

-Christine Balaz

If the old saying, "April showers bring May flowers" is true, then Utah is going to look like this next month:

Kane Springs Canyon as it opens into a proper valley.