If
I'm honest, the last year has been a rough one - and hopefully the
final chapter in a three-year nomadic spree.
The
past three+ years have involved dozens and dozens of flights and
numerous trips across the ocean, all kinds of people and places, so
many types of rock... and a lot of good luck and good weather.
However,
the most recent year has proven to be, by far, the most difficult.
Despite finally having a lot of freelance writing work and a regular
climbing partner - and despite a full year without any major new
injuries (my first ever!) - I've found myself constantly frustrated.
I
know with certainty that this has been a direct result of bad
weather, and therefore road-weariness. It has everything to do with
living in a two-person tent in the rain, not having a car for months
on end, bumming rides to the grocery store, gross showers, and
unstable weather that never clears... all the while paying
apartment-rate rent for camping, scraping together a living with
underpaid writing gigs, not having a proper place to work, cooking in
the rain/ wind/ snow, and not having a place to train.
On
the road and abroad, I've run into many pro climbers again and again
- logical, as these are the only other climbers consistently
travelling year in, year out. I've often wondered how they do this:
how they manage to travel all the time, pushed around by the weather
and visa restrictions, nevertheless staying strong and apparently
happy... It's only recently occurred to me that these people, through
sponsorship or personal funds, have enough money to not only fly to
Spain (or France or...), but to rent a house and car once there.
As
I was saying, in my/our three-year road stint, last year was
certainly the roughest. The negative feelings, for the first time,
outweighed the good. Bad weather collided with a growing desire to
hunker down into a stable life - a feeling that's been growing in
me/us for a while. However, my Swedish "boyfriend-husband"
and I have, as the law would have it, been playing the visa game:
trying to optimize cheap living, decent climbing weather, and
affordable plane tickets all around the world - all the while being
sure to never overstay a visa... and meanwhile trying to generate
some type of income. And though we're making plans to settle down
together, these hoops take a LONG TIME to jump through.
As
of a year ago, both of us would have much preferred to pick a home
and adapt to the climbing and life there. But again, David's legal
time in the US drew to a close, and off we went again! First to
Sweden, (back to the US for me, then) France, then Spain... then
Sweden... then Montana, then California. Doesn't sound bad, right?
And it really isn't, so we shouldn't complain. But if you've ever
grown tired of this lifestyle, then you'll understand what I'm
saying:
We
ended up overreaching our budget to stay in a crowded and cold gite
in Fontainebleau, got utterly doused and chased around by rain in
Catalonia (for weeks and weeks with a broken, two-person tent and no
car), and landed in Sweden in November. David worked nearly every day
in December. I flew home. He followed. I got sick. He got sick. I got
sick again. In January we went to Bishop - and camped in the
Buttermilks. I had a great time climbing, but David's fingertips
cracked like a desert floor - despite all skin treatments possible
and multiple long rest periods - so he essentially didn't climb at
all for an entire month. We slept in 0-degree weather, cooked in the
blowing wind, and lived (two people and one dog) in a passenger car
for a month. This isn't fun if only one person is climbing, and the
other is benched by a totally inexplicable skin problem.
You
can imagine that if you're trying to stay strong and watch your
weight, then this particular situation would not be too productive.
After all, we're doing this all for climbing, right?
I
think that, though it should prove fruitful in the long-run, a
new-found appreciation for training has added to the frustration.
Despite my ever-growing and -focusing interest and belief in
training, and the results its given me (an injury-free year at the
very least!), my inability to follow/ implement these new ideas has
just deepened my cynicism about my lack of stability and resulting
lack of fitness... and has made me feel bitter about the need to
constantly get in shape (again) for climbing.
...
Fast
forward a few months and many states. Here we are in Ten Sleep,
Wyoming. Trying to get back into shape. I just have to shake
my head about it and the feelings of futility I have. But I am
seriously motivated to push through it - now that I'm finally on the
cusp of achieving a stable life with a life- and climbing partner.
The thing that drives me to go through the process again is knowing
that we'll be here at least four months. Hopefully more - possibly a
lot more. And knowing that David will soon have permanent residency,
and we'll be able to coexist within the same borders (without
sprinting away at the end of a visa), and both work in the same
country. And we'll be set for a bit... at least until we start
working on my residency in Sweden!
So
though I'm bitter and pissed-off about my seeming self-inflicted
helplessness and lack of fitness, I'm hoping that this is really the
final chapter in a generally amazing, but utterly expired, portion of
my life.
We're
now living with kind, supportive, and extremely motivated friends in
an amazing place... rife with excellent climbing and good weather...
and even a home climbing and fitness gym to boot! We're getting in
shape for sport climbing... yes, AGAIN... and are trying to do so
happily.
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